I'm in my 50s and have recently developed brown spots. Can anything be done about hyperpigmentation?
Dermatologist Marisa Garshick explains how UV exposure, hormones and inflammation cause dark spots — and what can reverse them.
Dear Face Time, I’m in my early 50s and have recently developed some serious brown sun spots on my cheeks, forehead and chest. At first, I thought they were freckles, but then I realized they looked a lot smudgier and more blob-like than the freckles I had when I was younger. What can I do to get rid of them? Thanks! — Aging Into Age Spots
Dear Aging Into Age Spots,
It’s true that at one time you may have sprouted a sprinkling of cute, Punky Brewster-esque freckles, but into middle age you get less-cute sun damage, also known as the definitely unadorable-sounding hyperpigmentation.
"Hyperpigmentation is the result of an increase in melanin and can result from UV exposure or environmental stressors that lead to free radical damage and manifest as brown spots," board-certified dermatologist Dr. Marisa Garshick told me last month. "It can arise in the setting of what is known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which refers to discoloration that occurs as a result of skin injury or skin inflammation, such as after an acne breakout or a bug bite. Another type of hyperpigmentation is melasma, which typically occurs on sun-exposed areas of the face and can be triggered by hormonal changes."
While hyperpigmentation is super common, the bad news is it won’t go away on its own. But the good news? Garshick says there are loads of treatments for it, some of which you can try at home. The first thing to do if you notice new spots on your face (or body) is head to a dermatologist’s office. After the doctor has determined that the skin discoloration is benign, you can decide on the best course of treatment together.
In-office treatments for hyperpigmentation include lower-cost chemical peels or pricier services like lasers and light-based devices. Different forms of hyperpigmentation will respond better to different treatments, so a consultation with an expert is essential to find the right fit for your skin.
And while I was initially skeptical, Garshick assures me that at-home remedies can also be effective to brighten dark spots, though the effect will be more subtle and happen over time. Of the best over-the-counter products, she’s seen a good result with both inexpensive drugstore creams like Eucerin’s thiamiadol dark spot corrector and pricier serums like Mother Science’s award-winning Molecular Hero, which contains a patented form of malassezin and which was used — in addition to sunscreen — on the set of the most recent season of The White Lotus to keep the actors’ skin from developing further damage in the hot Thailand sun. Other ingredients that have been proved to promote clarity in your complexion are vitamin C and retinol.
Most important of all, to avoid further brown spots, Garschick says it’s crucial to apply sunscreen whenever you’re planning on being outside in the sun and to reapply it every two hours for optimal protection. "I'd also say to avoid peak hours in the sun and seek shade whenever possible," she adds.
What's the best makeup for wrinkles? Does retinol work? Ask Jennifer Romolini anything, as the kids say, and she'll answer with straightforward, expert-backed advice. Submit questions in the comments below, on social @yahoolife or email askfacetime@yahoo.com.
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